Wednesday Dec. 13, 2006
It was a rough welcome to Guatemala. The border crossing was actually quite straight forward and similar to entering Belize, but once I crossed that bridge into Guatemala everything changed. Here's a few pictures to help with the story (the video is better). It seems Canadians aren't the only ones experiencing global climate changes these days. People here keep telling me it was supposed to be dry season three weeks ago, but it hasn't stopped raining yet. I rode through 24 kms of various forms of magical mayan mud before hitting the last two hills which stopped everyone - just 1 km before the pavement started. Guatemala still thinks Belize belongs to them and since this is the only "highway" between the two, I believe they've intentionally made it hard to get in and out of. And funny enough, my maps never showed anything different here. I lost count of how many times I fell after the third time, and only once got my ankle caught under the pannier (thanks BMW for making good boots). By the time it was all said and done I managed about 150kms in 7 hours. I would have given almost anything for a set of knobbies that day. Nothing other than 4x4's (and eventually Buzz and I) made it up these hills without a pull from the very busy caterpillar front end loader. However, in retrospect, I should have paid him to carry Buzz up the hills in his bucket. It's extremely difficult staying upright when your front tire won't turn because of all the mud packed inside the fender.
 |
 |
You can't imagine my surprise when I read the destination of Calgary in the front window of one tour bus coming through the mud in the opposite direction.
It was either the rain or sweat (not sure which I like better - the rain is at least nice and cool - it's extremely hot when the sun comes out and you're trying to pickup a 700 lb plus bike), but I was completely soaked all day. When I approached the town of Flores the first thing I looked for was a pressure wash. The three young guys who worked there couldn't get enough of Buzz, and when I was done washing Buzz, I gave one of them the wand and he hosed me down from top to bottom, laughing the whole time.
Prices here were back down to at least or below mainland Mexico costs (Belize was quite a but more expensive than its neighbors). A modest room on the more touristy island of Flores cost me $60 Quetzales ($1 US = approx. $7.5 QTZ). And the restaurant where I just finished a chicken pizza and my first Guatemalan beer (Gallo) was playing Dixie Chicks and Lionel Ritchie music. So after a long, hard day I was actually glad to be in this place; with it's steep and narrow cobblestone streets (albeit a bit challenging to ride on when wet) and friendly people.
I noticed that a new Yamaha DT175 sells for $3,300 US.
Next it was off to see the famous ruins of Tikal. I was amused by the rather unusual road signs once I entered the national park, some 17 kms before the ruins. Fortunately, I only saw the first guy (with the pointy nose) that day.
Tikal is incredible. It's impossible to imagine how these stone creations were made, and the fact that they still stand are a testament to the ingenuity and strength of the Mayan people. Since several tourists have fallen and died over the years while climbing the steep rock stairs (which can be quite slippery when wet), wooden stairs with handrails now lead you though the jungle's canopy to a breathtaking view some 45 meters above the ground. I found out that this was also the film location of a rebel base in one of the Star Wars movies.
|
